Skin care and You

I can go on forever on each topic, however, lets move away from feet for a while and move towards make-up. Now, before we get started it is imperative for you to realize that make-up is very personal. As well, each make-up artist will have his or her opinion or customization and techniques. With that being stated, the information I provide you in this area is how I personally practice make-up artistry. You are welcome to take what you need and if you chose, disregard what does not work for you. I plan to do several articles in this area from time to time. Especially as bridal season fastly approaches. The utmost importance should always be placed on skin care. After all your skin is the pallet that I would create. MAKE-UP does not look good when it is caked on a crusty blemish...do you not agree? I am going to do a little lesson on skin care, then I hope to do something a little more fun next article. I am not going to name any products at this time, however, you will be able to assess for yourself the quality of the product before you purchase it.

Our skin is an amazing organ. It is the largest organ in our body. It is a water resistant layer and its purpose is to protect, secrete, and to regulate body temperature. It is composed of three basic layers. These consist of the epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous. The epidermis is the layer that we see, and it is what we work with. Even though our general health comes from within our body, we can topically take care of our skin.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN SKIN CARE

I am going to explain why a good skin care regime is important, therefore I will illistrate a few facts. Below is a ph scale. This scale is what scientists use to measure acidity versus alkalinity (also known as basic).

Ph scale

1----------7-----------14

acidic neutral basic

Acidic is at the lower end of the scale, and as you see the basic is at the higher end. Neutral means neither acidic nor basic.

1-------5.5----7-------9.5----14

skin water soap

Skin sits at 5.5, which means it is more acidic. The skin has an acidic mantle that is there to protect from bacteria infection. We have a lipid barrier as well that provides natural moisture to our skin. There is an actual ecosystem on the skin consisting of good bacteria and bad bacteria. Good bacteria keeps bad bacteria in check. Most people wash their face with either soap or plain water. The problem with water ist that it does not have the necessary acidity that is needed to clean the skin properly. Even if you don't wear make-up there is still a build-up of toxins, debris and free radicals (pollutants) that can harm the skin from prolonged exposure, that needs to be cleaned daily. Plain water does not have that ability. We know that so naturally people turn to soap. However, soap is very high in alkalinity. That means it is actually stripping the skin too much.

A proper ph balanced cleanser is what is required for properly cleaning. Usually cleansers sit at about 4.5 to 6 on the ph scale. It is more acidic thus it has the ability to properly clean the skin. However, the skin is not at it's natural ph, so we must use a toner/astringent that is alcohol free to restore ph, minimize pores, and remove residual cleanser and make-up. We then need to use a moisturizer , fortified with sunscreen, to restore the lipid barrier and moisture levels. Moisturizer should be used even if someone has acne. This will prevent the over production of sebum, thus causing a clogging of pores. Once a week it is necessary to exfoliate with either a clay mask, or gentle scrub, or products that contain AHA (alpha hydroxy acids) or with BHA (beta hydroxy acids) ingredients. AHA is fruit acids, and BHA is salicylic acid both are in small cosmetic levels. Higher levels are treatments done either by dermatologists, or in the form of glycolics by skin care specialists.

In conclusion, skin is the pallette for make-up and it needs to be taken care of on a daily basis. Not properly cleaning and nurturing your skin will speed up your aging process.

What to Look for In a Pedicure and Your Technician

As stated previously, many do not think of pedicures until summer is approaching, or a vacation is in sight. However, it is essential to maintain one's feet even during the winter months. This will ensure that the "piggy's" are ready to be bared, and the bottoms of the feet are free of cracks and fissures due to the dryness of winter.

One pedicure alone is not going to be the miracle. Once again regular pedicures, attained once a month, and constant home care will ensure not only healthy feet but pretty feet. So that brings me to my quest of educating people on what to look for in a technician, and the services they provide. As consumers, we are entitled to ask questions about services and practices. When we shop for items, they are generally tangible. They can be touched, looked at, or the scent can be examined. However, for services, we only have the person as the marketable "item". As a result, we are often not aware of what we are getting until we are in the midst of getting that service done. Therefore, it is our responsibility as a consumer, to do our research before purchasing the service.

A pedicurist should be certified. Unfortunately, in Canada, Estheticians do not have a regulating body, nor are there set laws for criteria. As a result, there are many people practicing that should not be. Your proposed technician should be able to answer your questions with knowledge, and expertise. Professionalism is defined through education and expertise. Even "infant" technicians should be able to provide answers for you.

Hygiene of course is of the utmost importance. As a consumer, you should be aware of how the salon cleans their implements, and stations. A hospital grade, broad spectrum disinfectant that has a Health Canada assigned DIN#, is the answer you should get. Many times salon owners, or techs get very offended when asked about cleanliness. It is very difficult for anyone to handle scrutiny, however, if they are practicing proper hygiene and sanitization, they will not have a problem explaining things to you or showing you their practices. For better understanding, I will explain sanitization and define things as I go. Remember, you are at anytime welcome to post me a message. It will not show up unless I decide to publish it, so therefore you have the opportunity to ask questions privately.

Sanitization is the process of making an enviroment clean and disease free. There are different levels of sanitization, as well as different quidelines for personal service providers, and our everyday life. It is divided into three basic categories. Sanitization is step one. This is where elbow grease and detergents are applied. A technician should be scrubbing her pedicure implements in anti-bacterial soap. This is to remove debris. If any debris is left on the implement or in the pedi-basin, a simple spray of disinfectant is not making those objects clean. In order for disinfectants to work, the debris must not be present. Sanitizers , (now remember this is for professional service and not home life, as it is a different environment all together.), are household cleaners, detergents, and soaps. With these and scrubbing debris is removed. Technically, floors cannot become cleaner than this level. However, it would be rather digusting to go for a pedicure while someone else's toenail clippings are staring you in the face, would it not? Sweeping and mopping this area is a must between each client.

Basins and implements need to be scrubbed to remove all debris. The next level is disinfecting. This includes the hospital grade disinfectant. In Canada, Health Canada has more rules than the F.D.A. of our U.S. neighbors. A Drug Identification Number (DIN#) is assigned to anything medical. This number means the product is recognized and is true to what it claims. As well, it is only as good as it's technician. If techs do not follow label instructions, it will not be as effective. This level is as far as the esthetics industry is required to practice by law. We do not penetrate nor do invasive work like doctors or dentists, so we are therefore not put in the same category. However, disposables like files, orangewood sticks and buffers (IN MY OPINION) should be thrown out after each client. There are files on the market that allows techs to disinfect them, so do ask if the files are sanitizable. I, personally, like to use one file per client.

Feet are full of so much bacteria, and fungi, that I do not want to be liable for spreading it. On the note of a disinfectant, broad spectrum means that it is a bacteriacide, fungicide, viracide, and tuberculocide. Tuberculosis and related bacteria, are the hardest to render inactive. Therefore, all soaking times for disinfectants are based on the time it takes to render tuberculosis as inert. That my readers is the definition of disinfect. It is the process of rendering bacteria, or viruses and such as inert or inactive, they cannot reproduce and cause the spread of disease. I like to say that the bacteria has had a vasectomy. That is usually good for a few giggles in the classroom.

The next step is sterilization. This is when bacteria is dead. In our industry, it may be in the form of an autoclave, or bead sterializer. I like to use the bead sterilizer, because the part that touches the client is put inside and heated to approx 250 degrees. WE ARE NOT DOCTORS, nor do we do the invasive procedures that doctors do. It is our responsability to ensure that we are using our implements correctly, however, accidents do happen and we can cut a client. The disinfectants are strong enough, but the sterilizer just takes the cleanliness to one step better. Note that if your tech does not have a sterilizer, that it is not required by law. However, the re-use of disposable materials is prohibited.

In conclusion, do be sure to ask about hygiene practices and watch very carefully to ensure that materials used on you are clean. Remember, you get what you pay for. So if you expect high quality services, and hygiene, for cheap prices you are unrealistic. Proper professional products costs are factored into your service price, I would question a cheaper price.

Taking care of Your Feet

Many people do not think of pedicures until sandle season approaches. However, what is not understood is that in order to have healthy feet, that look and feel good, one must maintain them with regular pedicures even through the winter months. In fact, it is more important to take care of them as we hide them in shoes or boots.

Bacteria loves to grow in dark, warm, dirty environments. We have 250,000 sudiferous glands, also known as sweat glands, in our feet. As a result of this our feet are in constant moisture. Our body regulates temperature through perspiration, as well as releases toxins. So needless to say, it is a moist environment. Most of us, due to changing shoe fashions, tend to buy economical shoes. These shoes are usually made with synthetic materials that do not allow absorption from the foot. Natural fibres naturally draw moisture. These include wool, silk , cotton and leather. The first step to healthy feet is wearing natural fibre socks, and shoes with plenty toe room. I, too, love fashion shoes which are not always toe friendly. Therefore, one must perform regular maintenance on one's feet to prevent the build up of corns and callus. Corns are a build up of callus on a joint or a pressure point. Over time they can become very painful. This is because there is pressure placed on nerves. If they are not kept they can require surgery from a Podiatrist.

As well, about 90% of the population has some type of fungus on their feet or toenails. Sounds unpleasant, but it can be kept from advancing by using an anti-fungal agent everyday. LCN has a product called Mykosept. It is a liquid form applied with a eye dropper. It contains piroctane, and tinactin which keep bad bacteria at bay. Also, healthy skin cannot allow bacteria entrance, so it is very important to use a foot cream rich in essential oils that absorbs and keeps skin soft and supple. I am not talking about mass marketed products that you can attain from drugstores. The foot cream should not contain petroleum products. These products are not absorbed, and just mask the foot causing perspiration which could result in athlete's foot, as an example. A good foot cream is fortified with urea, vit E, vit A, or a jojoba oil base. If you suffer from athlete's foot, or other fungal infections, these could be too rich for you. Therefore, you should be looking for a cream that contains menthol, mint or camphor. These ingredients cool the feet and keep bacteria from advancing. These of course, are your at home maintenace, along with a foot paddle.

Foot paddles should be used dry to remove callus, and should not be stored in your shower. Do not be fooled, as you can infect yourself with your own bacteria, so after using your paddle, you should scrub it with warm soapy water and spray it with alcohol, or better yet a hospital grade broad spectrum disinfectant. Then store the item in a dry, dust free area until your next use. Once a month, every four weeks, you should consult a professional for a pedicure.

A pedicure should involve callous removal, toenail trimming, and cuticle cleaning. I usually recommend the ommision of polish in winter months. This is because your natural nails moisture content is 18%, and when you cover that nail with artificial product or polish the moisture content is increase to 23%. Mold and fungus love that environment. However, with regular use of mykosept you can still have those sexy red toenails. There is a misconception, however, that nails need to breath. That is a wives tale. They are made of dead protein fibres, called keratin, and made of sulphur and a minut amount of calium. There is no blood supply, nor is there a nerve supply so therefore they are not alive and breathing. The matrix is the powerhouse of the nail and that is where the cells are developed. It is located at the base of your cuticle. Your oxygen and nutrients come from your blood supply through capillaries that feed the ends of your fingers or toes. I welcome all questions, this is the purpose of my blog. Stay tuned for an article on what to look for in a pedicurist.

What makes me an Esthetics Guru

In order for me to be taken seriously, I believe my credentials are required. I took the whole esthetics program at a local beauty school in 1993. I graduated with certificates in manicures, pedicures, artificial nails (acrylic), waxing, massage, lash and brow tinting, facials, body treatments, and make-up artistry. Of course, like any industry, education never stops. This is because technology and changing trends occur.

I originally went into the esthetics's industry with an interest in nail technology and make-up. However, I fell in love with pedicuring. As I gained more experience, I realized that even though I was certified, there was a great deal I still needed to know about foot care. Therefore, in 1998, I took an Advanced Pedicure class specializing in foot disorders and diseases. I, then, furthered my education to receive a medical designation in Podology. This entitles me to the acronym c.pod(I) after my name. I enjoy making people feel better by treating ingrown toenails, fungus on both skin and nail. It is amazing how good a person feels if their feet look and feel better. The worst pain in life is back or foot pain. People do not realize that their feet need special attention to get them through life. I will do a posting on that specifically at a later date.

I am not only an accomplished foot care specialist, but I have also worked out the hardships of mastering artificial nails. I am by no means the best, nor will I ever allow that title to become mine. I, humbly, realize that there is always someone better than I am. I truly believe that when a person thinks they are the best their quality of work depletes. Therefore, I conclude that, like anything in life , when a person becomes so smug they are unable to learn. I know that every day and with every client I am taught something new. I started with acrylic but the changing market and odorless work environments, forced me to adapt to gel. I love working with LCN products and resins, and in my opinion they surpass every product on the market for function, and durability. I use LCN's pedique for toenail reconstruction, pedicuring and manicuring as well. I also teach with these products.

At the moment I have a small esthetics room in my home. I do prefer working in a salon environment, however, because I teach for a local supplier, this works for now. As before mentioned, I am an educator as well. I teach classes in manicuring, pedicuring, advanced pedicuring, nail technology, make-up artistry and a dozen workshops. This aspect of my career is a dream come true. It is an honor to be a mentor for new technicians. It is hard work, and can be very trying, but very rewarding at the same time.

I also enjoy the business aspect of things. Therefore, I took several college courses in business marketing, accounting and law. I am not an expert in these areas, however it has helped me and will help me accomplish my own goals.

In conclusion, I am well qualified to be a guru. I am, however, growing in life and in career and I am always learning. The biggest aspect of my career is managing people, and being able to communicate openly, and listen intently. This allows me the ability to meet the needs of both my clients, and students. That is truly what makes a good esthetician. It is not about me, nor what I want. That does not make me a servant, nor a slave, but it gives me an avenue to make people feel beautiful on the outside, which makes them love themselves and be beautiful on the inside. I constantly joke that in order to be a good technician you have to have a PhD in psychology. In actuallity, it is just the ability to listen.

Let's get started

I am going to try not to repeat my profile, but at the same time I am still wanting to give a little piece of history on myself. I am, once again, and esthetician. I have been for several years, and like every newcomer to an industry I had growing pains. First of all, I had a little resistance from my family as they really would like to have seen me become an accomplished doctor. I chose to be in the beauty industry, and I am fully capable of other feats in my life, however I am completely satisfied with what I do. How lucky am I? There are alot of people working because they have to and not because they want to. Second of all, as I like to say to my students, one cannot pick up a guitar and be Jimmy Hendrix it takes time and practice to achieve excellence. That is very much what it is like to look at someone and just know the eyebrow shape they should have, or the foundation color that would best suit them, or have consistency in artificial nail shaped. Time and practice, like everything in life, is of the essence. EDUCATION in this industry is also key. It is the porthole to excellence, and expertise. It is the difference between ignorance which is bliss, and knowledge which is power.